Insulate to Cut Energy Use

Did you know that heating is the largest energy expense in most homes? And that weatherizing your home’s “building envelope” can cut your energy bills by 10 to 50 percent? Weatherizing your home involves making sure that all gaps in your home’s building envelope are plugged and that your home has sufficient insulation in all parts of the building envelope (including everything that separates the interior of a building from the outdoor environment -- windows, walls, foundation, basement slab, ceiling, roof and insulation.)

Insulating Your Home
Checking your home’s insulation is one of the fastest and most cost-efficient ways to reduce energy waste.

Insulation is usually discussed in terms of R-values: higher R-values represent better insulation and greater resistance to heat flow. Typically, higher R-values are recommended for ceilings than for walls and floors. The PUD recommends at least R-30 for ceilings, R-11 for walls, and R-19 for floors in existing homes.

Insulation is available in a variety of forms, including batts and blankets, rigid board and loose fill.

  • Batts, usually made of fiberglass or rock wool, are made to fit between the studs in your walls or between the joists of your ceilings or floors.
  • Rolls or blankets are also usually made of fiberglass and can be laid over the floor in the attic. Batts or blankets are generally also used on attic floors and to insulate first-story floors from crawl spaces or unheated basements, plus insulate exterior walls.
  • Loose-fill insulation, usually made of fiberglass, rock wool or cellulose, can either be poured or blown into spaces.
  • Rigid foam boards can be added to basement walls, exposed foundations, cathedral ceilings and exterior walls.

    When insulating don’t forget to insulate the attic access door, walls between living spaces and unheated garages or storage areas, foundation walls above ground level, foundation walls in heated basements, and slab floors built directly on the ground.

    Other Places for Added Insulation
    Don’t overlook another area in your home where energy can be saved—the ductwork of the heating and air-conditioning system. If water lines and the ducts of your heating or air-conditioning system run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your home (such as attic or crawl spaces), the water lines and ducts should be insulated.

    First, check the ductwork for air leaks. Repair leaking joints first with mechanical fasteners, then seal remaining leaks with water-soluble mastic and embedded fiber glass mesh. (Never use gray cloth duct tape because it degrades, cracks, and loses its bond with age.)

    If a joint needs to be accessible for future maintenance, use pressure or heat-sensitive aluminum foil tape. Then wrap the ducts with duct wrap R-6 insulation with a vapor retarder (or vapor barrier) facing out.

    Sealing Air and Moisture Leaks
    The air leakage in a typical U.S. home is equal to leaving a window wide open -- and a constant drain of energy and money. To stop these air leaks, all doors and windows should be weather-stripped and all seams, cracks, and openings to the outside should be caulked or sealed.

    Moisture control is also important to maintaining an energy-efficient home. If humid air leaks into cool spaces, moisture can condense and cause damage. In addition, moist insulation has a lower R-value, so moisture problems will lower your home’s energy efficiency.

    One way to control moisture is to seal air leaks around electrical outlets, switches and other penetrations through the building envelope for plumbing, wiring, ventilating, heating and cooling, and attic access.

    Don’t forget to check the hot water pipe that may pass from an unheated basement into your kitchen. Hardware stores sell a variety of grouts and sealants to plug the gaps around pipes such as these, as well as gaskets to install behind electrical outlets and switches.

    Vapor barriers or retarders are another way to control moisture. Vapor barriers include polyethylene sheets, low-perm-rated paints, laminated asphalt-covered building paper, vinyl wall coverings, and foil-type wallpapers.

    Vapor barriers should always be placed on the warm-in-winter side of the insulation. Do not install a vapor barrier over existing insulation.

     


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    Last updated: 12/2009
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